2009年2月17日星期二

Patent Leather -- Permanent Classic, or a Passing Fad


Couple days ago, I chatted with my colleague Orange over patent leather handbag. Orange said, some customers has the worry that patent leather may be a passing fad and will be out of fashion quickly in choosing patent leather handbag. Indeed, the trend of patent leather blows from 2007 Fall/Winter, has weakened at present. It can be said that, patent leather as prevailing fashion trend has past its golden days. But, the material of patent leather itself, had history of near 200 years, deserves to be called classic material. Patent leather handbag, is also nothing new, appears frequently in old movies and old pictures; to me, patent leather handbag not only is classical, but also reminiscent.

The inventor of patent leather is Seth Boyden, from Massachusetts State, America. In 1818, Seth Boyden blended a bright paint taking linseed oil as raw material; then he painted this bright “paint” on the leather surface, which has become patent leather. I have used hair oil which contains linseed oil, it is indeed light and shinny, but does not stick nor drape. Seth Boyden is an engineer, the original intention of his invention of patent leather is waterproofing, which has nothing to do with fashion. What’s worth mentioning is that, the inventor's younger brother Uriah Boyden is a greater inventor, who has invented the Boyden hydraulic turbine. The public library in their hometown is thus named after Uriah Boyden.

The shortcoming of using linseed painter for the coating, is not easy to dry. Therefore, patent leather are not widely used until 20th century 30's when people used plastic instead of linseed oil for the processing of leather.

Also it is by this time, the sparkling patent leather has seized the human eyes and its fashion value got discovered.

In the tradition, patent leather is suitable for official situations. For instance, a black tails, must go with a pair of black patent leather shoes. A patent leather handbag of classic design in grave is never too the leisure to attain any social event (dance party and evening banquets are exceptions). Also it is traditionthat patent leather is more suitable in spring and summer, maybe because it associates with coolness.

Let’s return to the “the paint” of patent leather. Now the widespread utilization coating is one kind of synthetic resin. Generally speaking, the coating is the thinner the better-- the softness of leather can be retained if the coating is thin enough, and added a ligtheness; if the coating is thick, the leather becomes hard, really look like plastic. The softest and lightest patent leather handbag is the sheepskin patent leather from Marni, it is as thin as paper, I fear it could be tore to pieces. The coating of some high quality patent leather is not specially thin, for instance, Louis Vuitton’s Vernis series, that is because of the shape they design, if too thin could not come out the desired effect.

The leather under the coating also needs attention.
If use exquisite leather like calf skin and lambskin whose texture can bearly be seen, then after coated, the leather will be as bright and smooth like mirror, even a fly all will slide on the surface. Many vintage patent leather handbag are of this type. I prefer patent leather of clearer texture, which is not so stiff and less formal, for instance leather with folds or cracks, or at least can see the leather texture/grains. Patent leather of clearer texture has another merit that it does not reveal handprints easily.

Then, the best patent leather designer handbag comes from where? The French designer's patent leather handbag has the best quality. But French's patent leather, is imports from Japan. The lace of the traditional flip-flops worn by Japanese women uses patent leather for water-proof, therefore the history of the Japanese producing patent leather is very long.

In brief, patent leather is the unusual traditional material. No matter patent leather is in the fashion or not, the patent leather handbag will never vanish.
If you pay attention, you can discover that nearly every big brand’s 2009 spring/summer collection has patent leather handbag design.(by HandbagsOutlet.biz)

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